AES Sparring Sword Tutorial

Materials and Supplies:

1/2" Solid Aluminum Bar (Full length of sword)

3/4" PVC Pipe (Approx. 6"+)

3/4" or 1" Galvanized Pipe Cap

Flexible hose: 5/8" ID Braided PVC (enough for entire handle)

"GOOP" 2-Part Epoxy Paste (SuperMend)

1/2" Closed Cell high impact foam

3/8" Closed Cell high impact foam

Smooth Canvas

Hockey tape

Duct tape

White Glue (Tacky Glue/Craft Bond works well)

Popsicle sticks

Tools:

Rulers/Tape measure

Xacto Knife

Hacksaw

File

Drill

Marker

Step 1: Handle & Hilt

Cut aluminum bar to desired length. Leave 2" for foam tip. (i.e. average Longsword is 48" overall, cut aluminum bar to 46").

Drill hole through 3/4" PVC pipe for cross guard.

File out hole so that it is square and fits snugly over the aluminum bar.

Cut PVC pipe to length for cross guard leaving 1.5" on either side of PVC for foam padding (i.e. for a 9" cross guard the PVC should be 6" long).

Position PVC pipe on aluminum bar.

Cut flexible hose to desired length for handle and fit over aluminum bar

Mix "Goop" (epoxy paste) .

Use epoxy paste to attach pommel and cross guard, make sure to also use epoxy on the inside of the PVC pipe.

Let epoxy set over night.

Step 2: Foam Blade

Cut 1/2" foam into two strips. Each strip is 1.5" and should extend 2" past the tip of the aluminum bar.

Cut a 2" by 1/2" strip as the plug for the tip.

Cut two strips of 3/8" foam. The 3/8" strips will be the same length as the 1/2" and cover each side of the blade (i.e.. the 3/8" strips should be 3.5" wide).

Stack all three layers of foam around the aluminum bar. You can use a couple strips of hockey tape to hold all the pieces together while you make the canvas cover.

Wrap the entire blade in canvas and cut to length.

Use white glue to glue the canvas to the foam blade Use a popsicle stick to place an even coat of glue on the blade.

Use one long strip of hockey tape to hold down the edges of the canvas and use hockey tape to tape down the fold at the tip.

You can also use a couple strips of hockey tape to add integrity to the blade.

You should be able to slide the whole blade on and off the aluminum bar with little effort.

Step 3: Cross Bar

Measure out two strips of 1/2" foam approx. 1.5" wide and 9" long (for a 9" cross guard).

Cut 4 pieces that are 1.5" long to fill the gap at the end of the PVC pipe.

Cut 2 small strips of foam to fill in the gaps at the bottom of the cross guard under the PVC pipe.

Tape the cross guard together with two strips of hockey tape.

The cross guard should be squared off with the PVC pipe visible at the blade end.

Use duct tape to cover the entire cross guard; the tape should be tight and "slightly" compress the foam.

Step 4: Finishing off

Wrap the entire handle (flexible piping) in hockey tape (as you can see in the picture I used some extra hockey tape to create a "saddle" or "belt" in the middle of the grip).

Reinforce the tip. I used two very thin strips of foam and fully taped the tip in hockey tape. This is to help reduce the chance of the aluminum tip biting through the side of the foam blade.

Lastly, use duct tape to secure the foam blade to the cross guard (you will want to remove the foam blade to straighten the aluminum bar so take it easy on the duct tape).

Enjoy your sparring sword.

Extra Tips:

Never step on the foam blade in an attempt to straighten the aluminum bar. This will not straighten the bar and will force the aluminum tip to cut through the foam blade.

To straighten the aluminum bar, remove the foam blade and use a secure vice to straighten the bar. Alternatively you can simply straighten the bar by bending it using the floor and a little elbow grease. The aluminum bar is fairly soft and will bend fairly easily.

Pommel: you can use either a 3/4" or 1" pipe cap as your pommel, this will effect the balance and handling of your Sparring Sword.

An extra set of hands is very helpful when building your sparring sword, so try and get someone to help you when you build your sword.

Have fun.

If you have any questions or suggestions please e-mail Paul La Rue

Materials and Supplies: 1/2" Solid Aluminum Bar (Full length of sword) 3/4" PVC Pipe (Approx. 6"+) 3/4" or 1" Galvanized Pipe Cap Flexible hose: 5/8" ID Braided PVC (enough for entire handle) "GOOP" 2-Part Epoxy Paste (SuperMend) 1/2" Closed Cell high impact foam 3/8" Closed Cell high impact foam Smooth Canvas Hockey tape Duct tape White Glue (Tacky Glue/Craft Bond works well) Popsicle sticks	Tools: Rulers/Tape measure Xacto Knife Hacksaw File Drill Marker
Step 1: Handle & Hilt Cut aluminum bar to desired length. Leave 2" for foam tip. (i.e. average Longsword is 48" overall, cut aluminum bar to 46"). Drill hole through 3/4" PVC pipe for cross guard. File out hole so that it is square and fits snugly over the aluminum bar. Cut PVC pipe to length for cross guard leaving 1.5" on either side of PVC for foam padding (i.e. for a 9" cross guard the PVC should be 6" long). Position PVC pipe on aluminum bar. Cut flexible hose to desired length for handle and fit over aluminum bar Mix "Goop" (epoxy paste) . Use epoxy paste to attach pommel and cross guard, make sure to also use epoxy on the inside of the PVC pipe. Let epoxy set over night.

Step 2: Foam Blade Cut 1/2" foam into two strips. Each strip is 1.5" and should extend 2" past the tip of the aluminum bar. Cut a 2" by 1/2" strip as the plug for the tip. Cut two strips of 3/8" foam. The 3/8" strips will be the same length as the 1/2" and cover each side of the blade (i.e.. the 3/8" strips should be 3.5" wide). Stack all three layers of foam around the aluminum bar. You can use a couple strips of hockey tape to hold all the pieces together while you make the canvas cover. Wrap the entire blade in canvas and cut to length. Use white glue to glue the canvas to the foam blade Use a popsicle stick to place an even coat of glue on the blade. Use one long strip of hockey tape to hold down the edges of the canvas and use hockey tape to tape down the fold at the tip. You can also use a couple strips of hockey tape to add integrity to the blade. You should be able to slide the whole blade on and off the aluminum bar with little effort.

Step 3: Cross Bar Measure out two strips of 1/2" foam approx. 1.5" wide and 9" long (for a 9" cross guard). Cut 4 pieces that are 1.5" long to fill the gap at the end of the PVC pipe. Cut 2 small strips of foam to fill in the gaps at the bottom of the cross guard under the PVC pipe. Tape the cross guard together with two strips of hockey tape. The cross guard should be squared off with the PVC pipe visible at the blade end. Use duct tape to cover the entire cross guard; the tape should be tight and "slightly" compress the foam.

Step 4: Finishing off Wrap the entire handle (flexible piping) in hockey tape (as you can see in the picture I used some extra hockey tape to create a "saddle" or "belt" in the middle of the grip). Reinforce the tip. I used two very thin strips of foam and fully taped the tip in hockey tape. This is to help reduce the chance of the aluminum tip biting through the side of the foam blade. Lastly, use duct tape to secure the foam blade to the cross guard (you will want to remove the foam blade to straighten the aluminum bar so take it easy on the duct tape). Enjoy your sparring sword.

Extra Tips: Never step on the foam blade in an attempt to straighten the aluminum bar. This will not straighten the bar and will force the aluminum tip to cut through the foam blade. To straighten the aluminum bar, remove the foam blade and use a secure vice to straighten the bar. Alternatively you can simply straighten the bar by bending it using the floor and a little elbow grease. The aluminum bar is fairly soft and will bend fairly easily. Pommel: you can use either a 3/4" or 1" pipe cap as your pommel, this will effect the balance and handling of your Sparring Sword. An extra set of hands is very helpful when building your sparring sword, so try and get someone to help you when you build your sword. Have fun.